French Dinner Party, Scams, Spring and colds

Well, it has been a very pleasant few days down here in La Sud de France. Pleasant as in sun, sea, saucisse,  and serenity. We wish you were here to share this beautiful situation with us. 

After Valentine's day, I came down with a horrible cold.  I am still not recovered yet as energy is nil. Pat followed suit about Tuesday and we have done nothing but lay about for the last week. However, we did manage to make the dinner party as you will see below and Pat took a few photos of spring budding in Alignan.

 

I also we may have been the target of scam artists this week. I listed the car for sale on an Anglo information website. Shortly, I got an email wanting to buy it. I again gave him the price and he said (via email he would give me 50 euros more than I asked and to send him my address, etc. He said he would send me a check that included a shipper fee that I could give to his private shipper. Sounded a little irregular so I asked him for confirmation of the details but did not send him any of my details. I have not heard from him again and I think there was a scam afoot with the third party "shipper".

The French Dinner Party

Last Friday night we were treated to a beautiful evening thanks to our next door neighbors Yves and Monique. Monique had mentioned it a few weeks ago and Monday she extended the invitation for 7:15 Vendredi. We certainly did not know what to expect but put our best face on and rang the bell. Almost simultaneously, Joe and Pierre and their femmes walked up and started introducing themselves as if we were old friends. In fact, we had met them at the Alignan village fete 2 years ago. Yves threw open the door and the kissing began. Specific to our area, you must kiss three times on the cheek. So four women times three cheeks and my kisser became fatigued. But all in fun and expected among friends.

Yves sent the others up his front stairs and kept Pat and I to himself. He wanted to show us more of his house. We went back from the front parlor thru his bureau (office) and thru his garage to the other side of the house. It was once two houses and his daughter spends her holidays in the other side. We arrived on the first floor to reveal a magnificent space de vie. It was about 8-9 meters across and 12-14 meters deep. The back opens onto a beautiful terrasse and the dining table is tucked away in a corner of the room adjacent to the cuisine.

Monique and the others welcomed us up and settled us into comfy chairs surrounding a low buffet table loaded with assorted aperitifs. After a couple of minutes of small talk, Yves could stand it no longer and the drinking started. Champagne for the ladies and Joe, a Pastis for Pierre and whisky for Yves and me were the favorites. Then comes Monique with Foie Gras on spice bread. Later we were offered crispy heart shaped crackers and more Foie Gras. We became better acquainted with our companions and began to relax a bit.

The guest list was a little curious in that we had four different nationalities there. Yves and Monique were the only French having lived in the village for several generations. Joe and Maryann are Dutch from South Holland in the Netherlands. Pierre (Peter) and Nancy were from “Limburger” a Dutch region almost in Germany so slightly different than Joe.  Joe explained when he spoke to Pierre he spoke in “Limburg” and to Maryann in Dutch, to Yves in French and to the American in Anglais. It was absolutely amazing how well we were able to communicate, with Joe occasionally having to convert for someone’s benefit.

The champagne was complet and we were summoned to dinner. Monique had prepared an Alsatian specialty Choucroute Garnie. Cooked in Alsace Reisling wine, it consists of hearty portions of roast salt porc, sauscisse Francfort, thick slices of bacon garnished with whole small potatoes served on a bed of sweet kraut. Spices are added including allspice, cloves and whole peppercorns. (the kraut (choucroute) is far different from the German style and the type we usually see in USA being much sweeter and softer in flavor) A feast usually reserved for Sunday lunch in the Alsace region, it is finding favor all over France.  Monique served each plate lovingly with her masterpiece and had to bring more for Yves, Nancy  and Peter who finished their first plate is short order.  Yves popped a special white wine specifically hand selected to complement the dish.

Shortly, Yves calls for the fromage (cheese course). While Monique is serving, Yves is busy telling about the wines he has selected for the fromage course. He suggested a sweet rouge to go with the Roquefort and the chevre, and a local rouge to complement the hard cantal vieux (old cantal). Both were fantastic with the cheese and fresh baguette.  Dessert was a profiterole avec glace. (Creamy chocolate in pastry with ice cream). Obviously you can’t have dessert without popping more champagne. Later, Yves seemed offended when only Pat and I joined him for an Armagnac from the last of his special bottle.

We laughed and talked until after midnight covering all the usual topics of national affairs, socialism, music (including Jerry Lee Lewis), wild local stories about villagers, local mayor politics and even complaining about the gendarme setting traps with Breathalyzer on nights where there are village fetes. When we were discussing the music, several times one would start a song in French and the others would join in briefly. Pat explained about several American songs being heard in French and Joe immediately started “cigarettes, whisky and wild, wild women” in French. Monique jumped in on the “p’tites pippees” part. What a hoot! (a video here  Eddie Constantine

It was really fun to see them “let down their hair”. Yves and Monique are both very gregarious and loving. Joe was boisterous and had a yarn for every occasion.  Pierre and Nancy were a little quieter but the emotion and animation of the others, particularly Yves and Joe, kept them laughing all night. If I am never invited back, I will cherish this evening and feeling so welcome and included in the village. 

Valentine 2014

Well, it has been a very pleasant few days down here in La Sud de France. Pleasant as in sun, sea, Sauvignon and serenity. We wish you all were here to share this beautiful situation with us.

I apologize for the lack of photos but I wanted to offer our update anyway.

On the 31^st, our little group of eighteen went to Pouzolle for the Thai night at Ken and Alison’s.  The   menu was fabulous and very tasty. After an aperitif of Thai punch or pastis, we started with Thai fish cakes followed by a beautiful salad of glass noodles and king prawn, the dressing was out of this world. The main courses were served buffet style with a choice of Thai cashew chicken, jungle curry pork, fried Thai noodles, sautéed vegetables and steamed rice. This was followed by a fantastic cucumber salad.  Dessert was a fruity something or other that I doubt was Thai. But a great meal anyway. The only catch was that Ken has yielded to the English pressure and increased the amount of chilies he uses. The pork had whole chilies that would light you up if one slips in on you. The meal included unlimited wine and café to finish for €18.

On Sunday, we caught an early nap then headed over to John Merson’s for the Super bowl. It started here at 12:30 Monday morning. We held out hope that Denver would wake up but ultimately gave up as they did before they arrived. Pat had cooked some cornbread and we brought some guacamole to go with John’s English chili which is very good. They eat the chili with rice here. A good meal made up for a poor game. We went home at 3:45 sadly disappointed in American football.

The next week tragedy struck for all the British expats here. The satellites that brought UK telly here to the Sud de France had been reconfigured. The intent was to tightly focus the satellite focus on UK. The result was that all the BBC, ITV and Sky channels were lost. And smack dab in the middle of the Olympics.You have never heard such caterwauling. At our house on a slight larger dish we only lost BBC but Robert lost everything on his small dish. Francois from Roujan has installed more large dishes in the past week than he normally does in a year including a 1 meter for Robert and a 1.2 meter for John Mackenzie. John said his roof now resembles Jodrell Bank  observatory. Strangely, by the next week most channels had returned. Thinking was that the reconfiguration was over cooked and they had to increase the power. Who knows if it will stay or larger dishes are in order for all. But what a frenzy it created.

Speaking of tragedies, I went to rent a truck to haul a large piece of furniture only to find out that my driver’s license has expired! Another frenzy ensued. While I was able to finesse the clerk to get the truck, I now know what a spot I am in. I could easily renew in Georgia but a vision test is required and you must go in person to do that. France reciprocates with some USA states to simply exchange for a French license. Going online, to get the requirements, I built my dossier, which required getting an official translator to translate my license. €25 please.  I had to get new passport photos as on my old one I was smiling and the French want a closed solemn face with no jewelry etc. €12 please.  I had to show proof of residency, green card, and copies of all of that and fill out two application forms. After standing in line for 30 minutes, I used my poor French to ask for the exchange. They took all my papers and then started giving some of them back to me. I was then told Georgia doesn't exchange with France and it was not possible to get a French license. So here I sit unable to get either license! For the French, I would need to go to driving school with 20 hours behind the wheel in addition to classroom hours.

Last Sunday we went to the Roquebrun Mimosa Fete. Here the mimosa (also pronounced differently as in Meem–o-sah` ) is a totally different tree with bright yellow blossoms that blooms in early Fevrier. 

The fete is absolutely one of the most French fetes in the area. It differs in that it is in winter and there are very few outsiders come and I don’t know why. There are the usual complement of artisan vendors with cheese, honey, crafts, saucisson, sweets , etc. wine degustation everywhere although Helene said they really weren't anxious to share.  

Food is everywhere from cafes and street stalls. We tried to eat a little late only to find the good stuff sold out. We (Kenth and I) had a lard sandwich which was pretty awful just a piece of thick sliced “bacon” with some potatoes in a piece of baguette.

They shot cannon to signify the start of the parade. Twenty minutes later here they come led by a brass band with drums and a course line of dancing girls. Not just dancing girls but dancing grannies! The youngest was probably 45 and I shudder to guess the oldest. It was the same group we saw in 2009 only 5 years older  and with new platinum hairpieces  The procession includes about 5 musical bands interspersed with “floats” which were vineyard tractors highly decorated with flowers and populated by mostly local children throwing confetti and spraying colored cream on the crowd. Miss Mimosa was anything but a Miss being quite matronly and plump.

Miss Mimosa and court

The street for the parade is narrow already but the spectators get right in the middle of the proceeding so it is hard to tell official paraders from spectators. It also makes it a little difficult to get good photos. 

le mad boulangers

Next to last in the parade are the boulangers (bakers). They come running down the street sharing their craft with anyone in range. Some carry billows filled with flour that is shot into the crowd. Some pick someone in the crowd and carry some flour and decorate that person appropriately. There is no shortage of candidates as everyone is in the street.

boulangered

looking for a victim

Vin pout tout

The last float is a wine press with people handing cups of wine to the spectators. as far as 600 liters will go. Pat and Hannie said it was good. Jake didn't like the noise and cannon and drums and stayed under a table.

Monday night a bunch of us went to Beziers to a new place ran by an English rugby player. I think he was more like the water boy as he was very small for rugby. But he was a very nice young man and we enjoyed his curry very much. Not too hot but a very nice taste. If you have a chance to catch a rugby game on TV, I highly recommend it. Compared to American football, it is total chaos.

Wednesday night was poker night, this time at Ken’s in Pouzolle. I have lucked into a great group of guys from Margon and the second Wednesday we have our friendly game. It is strange in a sense as they all seem to be well-heeled expats and we play for 10 cents a chip (but no limit on raises) this week we had 2 Americans one Scot,  two Brits and a Frenchman. I was very lucky and won all of €7,60.

From the foliage, you would think spring is here. We have almond trees and few fruit trees blooming. The temps haven’t been that warm but very comfortable for winter. The lows have been mid-forties and the highs mid-fifties and occasionally pushing sixty. Today’s low was 55 and forecast high of 63. Locals are busy in their jardins preparing the soil for the seasons. All the pubs are full of early season plants and supplies.

Thursday the Tour Méditerranéen came rolling thru the village.

It was hard to guess but certainly over 500 cyclists and their entourages. The village was shut down as the gendarme barricaded off the race route. I came back from Pezenas and couldn't get home because of the barricades. So Jake and I decided to see what was going on.

A neighbor came over and told me it was a vineyard tractor race. In France, who knows what will happen next. So I called Pat and told her to get the camera ready for the tractor race. It wasn't long till my neighbor fessed up that it was really bicycles. There were almost as many gendarme as riders. They were going so fast the whole thing was over in about 5 minutes but fun while it lasted. When I got home, Pat said she still was waiting for the tractors, but she made photos of the cyclists just in case I had missed them .

Valentine’s day gave us the opportunity for a wonderful outing with friends. Hannie and Bert, (Dutch)  Kenth and Helene (Swedish) and Pat and I had a great time at Jerome’s (La Table des Vigneron) at the Cave in Tourbes. We also met Patrick and Helene (Belgique) there. Patrick has had excellent reports from his Dr. so we all toasted his continued good health. 

The meal was one of the best we have had. Five courses I think, starting with tapenade on toast and local olives. The entrée was a big hit with all: a giant broiled prawn and noix St. Jacques (scallops) which were sliced thin and floating is a dill based coulis. The prawn was served warm but the St. Jacques cold. The next course was cabillaud doux ( the sweetest cut of cod) again surrounded by a white coulis and the fish melted in your mouth. Garnis was fried crispy seaweed and the side was sweet potato. The next course was Magret a'point (duck breast medium) avec legumes du jour. The slices were large and prepared perfectly. I was amused that our colleagues cut off the juicy pieces around the edge but I thought that it added a lot of flavor.  Dessert was a pyramid shaped poire Chantilly covered with chocolate on a chats langue (cat’s tongue) piece of cake. Vin and café inclus. A perfect 3 hour meal with friends.

Janvier 2014

Well, it has been a very pleasant few days down here in Le Sud du France. Pleasant as in sun, sea, Syrah and serenity. We wish you were here to share this beautiful situation with us.

The trip back was smooth and easy except for a miscalculation to the sat nav. It had us heading southwest to Bordeaux instead of south to Languedoc.  Human intervention was required to straighten

 that not so kind voice out. We reached our overnight destination of Beaune and found the Carrefour for a late snack and then straight to sleep after a long day. Jake was glad to take a couple of walks and start the recalibration process. His clock gets terribly confused. Breakfast (l’petit de juener) was a delight with fresh (proper) croissants and all the trimmings. You know you are having a proper croissant when butter flakes the size of quarters fill your plate. Not wasted though as a bit of buerre or fromage will pick it right up.

Buxy Cave

About 30km down the road, we stopped at Buxy to stock up on Burgundy/Bourgogne wine for us and our friends here.

Burgundy wine is very different from Languedoc wine due to the raisin and the terrior. In Burgundy, Pinot Noir is predominant while in our region, it is predominantly Syrah but complemented by about 20 other raisins. We bought two cases mixed of Mercurey, Givry, Aligote, and Chardonnay. Feeling good about our choices, (of course we had degusted all) we beat a beeline to Alignan.

Arriving about sundown, we had to restart the vieux maison. Electricity was a pushbutton on the meter and water and gaz is just a twist of the poignee. Having been closed for three months, the old house had reached its coldest point. We started the clim (climatisation or heat pump) and waited. Seemed like a long time went by and it was still blowing cold air. I panicked and call Regis who installed the clim. In true French fashion, he simply said “demain matin”. I should have expected that! In about twenty more minutes, the clim started blowing warm air so I called Regis back and told him not to come. He told me it takes a long time for the gases in the clim to get going.

La Hacienda

After a couple days rest, it was time to get in the swing of things with a “Burns Supper”. It is a celebration of the Scottish poet Robert Burns. It is traditionally held on his birthday, the 25^th of January. Our group usually has it at someone’s home, but this year we had it at La Hacienda on the ^rd. as John MacKenzie opined, “It is only in Southern France  that you can have a Burns night supper at a Spanish restuarant called the L'hacienda, and they make their own Haggis, to a recipe handed down through the centuries, as, of course, El Syd, aka, Charlton Heston, hired Scottish mercenaries  to fight against the moors or whoever,  and it was they who introduce the Spanish to Haggis  or the other way around. So the Haggis will have a Spanish  flavour, a bit of bulls blood , and perhaps a bit of the bulls testies! You know the old joke! We are also having Scottish dancing, no doubt with a Spanish flavour, so there will be the Gay Manuel's , strip the olive, and the dashing white señor. I am certainly looking forward to what should be a great evening.” After that description, who could resist?

Of course full Scottish regalia is suggested. Peter, Robert and I donned our kilts and otherwise

La Madame

muttered in Gaelic occasionally. Of about 50-60 in attendance, I think two smaller tables were probably Scottish, but our table was totally British (except us) and the center table was French. Diane and Jose, our hosts, put on a splendid show commencing with music from bagpipes, elbow pipe, fiddles, drums and guitar. I am sure the music was authentic but it sounded very Irish to me. Ancient Scottish dances followed with volunteers from the audience. Most were reels or “square dance” in nature but it was curious to see the French try to make sense of it.

Before the meal, we had the usual addresses or toasts. First the guests are piped in with the bagpipe, quite informally as everyone arrives. A welcome address is given by the host or other dignitary. Before the first course , the Selkirk Grace is offered, then the supper starts with Cockaleekie soup. Then the haggis is piped in with its processional and the address to the haggis read. 

Menu

Finally we can eat. Our meal started with Finnan Haddie (fishcake) followed by haggis, filet de bouef, tatties (potatos) and neeps (turnips). We had “gravy” for the haggis which is a wee dram of highland whisky poured directly over the warm haggis. Then a creamy fruit dessert finished off the meal but not the evening.

Who let him in?

Robert and Warrick

Fine Fettle

More traditional dancing ensued to the delight of the French. Then a local Scot dignitary read the address to the lassies which required another wee dram. When the cheering quieted down, a fine Scots lass then read the address to the ladies. You guessed it, another wee dram. More piping and fiddles led into the sword dance which was ably performed by the last still upright Scot. Jose tried his luck but the swords kept moving on him til he left the stage. A great evening in the South of France came to a close as finally the host calls on one of the guests to give the vote of thanks, after which everyone is asked to stand, join hands, and sing Auld Lang Syne (a Robbie Burns original)bringing the evening to an end. We paid a modest bill of 40€ each and said we couldn't wait til next year.

Meanwhile back at the ruin, it takes about a week to get the chill off the house, even there are cold spots and each opening of an outside door loses a couple of hours progress. Not that it is that cold here. Lows have been generally in low-mid forties and highs in low to mid fifties. Wind and rain can make it feel colder and soleil can make it feel great. 

It is super pleasant to be back as each villager will smile, speak first, ask about our vacance and just welcome us back. All in French! But we love it. It is a life filled with such simple pleasures. No pretension or faux facades. Jake has his people friends and they come to him to greet him when they see him. They may not know our name but they all know “Jacque”. 

Even the old ruin is filled with surprises that we enjoy here but not in USA. I had forgotten how nice a hot towel is when getting out of the shower. Towel dryers (serviette sechoir) are standard here while I have seen few if any in USA. Fresh markets 100 meters from your door and fresh daily bakery is extraordinary and so great. Our plants did reasonably well under our new skylights in the conservatory however we have discovered the skylights are leaking quite badly. 

Walks in the vines take you completely away from most everything. The vines look pitiful this time of year. The cutting seems to be ahead of schedule even though there was a late harvest. The vines that have been cut look absolutely naked while those not yet cut look a straggly tangle of dormant twigs. My neighbor brought me a bottle of the first wines from last fall and told me to drink it now because it won’t be good very long. Typical of the first wines of a season.

Before

Before

On Tuesday, the artisans who specialize in restoring old floors started grinding and cleaning the floors in the salle manger and cuisine (dining room and kitchen). It was much slower than they thought as they worked an extra day on hands and knees grinding 

away.
They cleaned it 4 times to remove all the dust and locked it  up with the clim set to dry. A day and a half later they tested it with a meter and deemed it ready for resine. They add two coats of resine followed by three coats of “cire acrylique” (acrylic wax).

It is somewhat difficult to appreciate the difference unless you had seen and felt the floors beforehand. The results are outstanding and while I personally may not have chosen that pattern, they look great and original to the 170 year old house.

Renewed floor in Dining room

Friday night, we headed off to Ken and Alison’s Thai night. They are an American couple from Seattle that run a catering and theme dinner business in Pouzolle. As usual, the food was great and our group had a dining room to ourselves. There were 14 of the usual plus some folks whom we had met before. Ken had polished up his hot chile expertise and two of the dishes caught us off guard with whole chiles to keep you awake. We are scheduled back there on the 15^th for fish and chips.