Wednesday, October 21, 2015

The Barn


Well, it has been very chilly in the Languedoc the past week. The lowest temperatures in 40 years were seen last Wednesday through Saturday. Overnight lows dropped to 8(C)(46F) on Wednesday and continued down to 3(37F) by Saturday. Back up to normal on Sunday  at 11c(51f) for lows and and 17c (65f for highs. The forecast is for continued seasonal for the next 30 days.

Still, we enjoy it here watching the French behave like Atlantans at the first hint of snow. parkas were dragged out and people looked like dead of winter at 40F.
We wish you were here to see the crazy things we do.

Below, I have started a series on how we transformed a very rustic barn into very livable space. It was a long, sometimes difficult,  path so I will break the renovation into 2-5 segments and try to let you see what we were up against.



In the beginning…
First glance
When we bought the old ruin, there was a large area on the back side of the house and on the second floor that had been used as a barn. It was never intended as anything else. It was the place where grain, hay, supplies, spare equipment and probably the hen house would have been. In our case, we found that all the useful pieces had been salvaged and what was left was debris of all ilk. Old doors, furniture, tiles, pump equipment, pieces of farm equipment, tools and pieces of broken tools were littered around the entire area.

The area was comprised of two rooms in an "L" shape. Our plan was to separate the two rooms into habitable space: an interior room that would be a "summer" kitchen and an outside space for a terrasse. The inside room is about the size of a two car garage and the outside space equivalent to a four car garage all together measuring about 1200-1300 square feet. At its tallest point, it about 6 meters (20 feet) high sloping with the roof to about 2 meters at the street side.


Various litter


Junk over the concreted area

Tiles, doublage, doors, trash
Part of the floor had been covered with concrete mixed very weak and was cracked and very crumbling. The rest was rotten wood originally a very thick tongue and groove. There were three large holes, the biggest about 3 feet by 10 feet. One hole was right in front of the door from the house to the barn and was partly covered with a crumbling piece of sheetrock “doublage”, two sheets of sheetrock with a cellular mesh between. You had to be very careful where you stepped to get out onto the barn floor. Other weak spots and small holes in the wood were covered by old doors or thick planks so it was easy enough to step from one safe island to the next.
Old pump wheels


Pump parts and pipes for wine making

Old furniture and junk

Hand made ladder from rough tree limbs

The walls were concrete render without regard to quality or looks. The walls were made of rubble, that is small, medium and large rocks stacked to form a wall. Ours is about 2 foot thick. My neighbor says our common wall was stacked without any mortar and then skimmed with a concrete finish layer. The walls were in fair shape, although filthy, since they were above the ground and not susceptible to rising damp. 

The barn had one door (two, actually, but one had been bricked up closed) and one exterior window with a pulley system that raised pieces from the street below into the barn. It was very dark when the window’s shutters were closed. So to get some light, you had to tiptoe island to island to open the shutters for light. The window is about 12 feet off the ground with no protection so the shutters were usually closed. I had to prop things in front of the door to keep Jake safe. Later I put up a little fence and Jake sometimes enjoyed lying by the window. 
Only source of light 

Jake's fence
Jake sans fence laying in filth

Debris through the dust




Debris thrown thru the holes in the floor




Starting the renovation process.
We did not start doing any renovation work on this area until February of 2013. We had been concentrating on the living quarters of the house and trying to outfit it into a home. When we turned some attention to the barn we knew it would be a long process.
Obviously the first step was to clear the area of the large debris and begin cleaning the 100 year old collection of dirt, dust, cobwebs and sacks. The sacks actually came in handy as they were used to collect the loose dirt and small bits and haul to the dechetterie (dump). 

The wood had to be separated from the metal and the rocks/broken concrete with each getting a different treatment. Some of the larger wooden pieces had to be cut up before we could handle them and some of the flat pieces, like doors, were ultimately buried under the new concrete floors that came later. The wood and dirt went to the dechetterie but we didn’t know what to do with the metal. 


Serendipitously, a young man appeared at the garage door one day and asked (in French) if we had any metal (fer in French) we wanted to get rid of. After a lot of yammering, I finally determined that he was a messenger from God and was here to help me out.  He pulled his camion (truck) around back and directly below the barn window and collected all the metal in the ground floor garage/cuvee first. Afterward, he  went upstairs and started throwing all the scrap metal into the street below. There was quite a bit of it and took him some time to get it all down. The long pipes fell cross-ways into the street, and he had to stop and go down and reopen the street he had blocked. All this is very normal in France and while the people who were blocked were not pleased, but it happens all the time here.


Then about a week of scooping, sweeping and scooping again the dirt, rocks and tiny debris off the floor. the floor was covered with 1/2 to 1 inch of powder dust that had filtered through the porous roof and back window. The sacks made many trips to the dechet until they had too many holes to be used for dirt and then they got used for concrete and rocks. Afterward, we could see better the tasks ahead.
Toward the outside room


Inside room

Looking toward the outside


First renov work

The bricked up door re-opened
I then tackled the chore of securing the large holes in the floor. This was necessary to support the concrete load that was to follow. I cut sturdy planks to span between the underlying roughhewn cross beams. Where it still seemed weak, I added a sheet of OSB to give it more strength.
Holes, Holes, Holes



I repaired two holes and poured a thin slab of light weight concrete that used vermiculite instead of gravel on the second.  The small holes and soft spots were covered with doors, or flat pieces of wood to keep us from falling through.The underlying structure is hand hewn tree branches which follow no repeatable form. they put a concrete plaster compound to span the cracks and the covered with the concrete skim coat or wood.
I do like working sitting down

Hand hewn timbers







I am good at demolition!





















Before we started working in this area, I had knocked out the other door that had been bricked up and had my builder install a modern double glaze door in the opening.
More debris for Pat to collect

The window "door"












It wasn’t used for about a year until we began going into this area. Then we found out it was actually a window in the shape of a door! It only had a door knob on one side, so you could open it to go out but you couldn’t get back in. You know, they could have explained that at the store!! Now it is plastered in and not worth tearing it all out and get a new one.


Le Superviseur guarding the sacks



Coming soon.. 

The next chapter will focus on getting a new (and solid)  floor put down. Many photos with it.

A la prochain!

Sunday, October 18, 2015

Septembre Mise a Jour ( an update concentrating on food and fun)



Well, it has been a very pleasant few months down here in La Sud de France. Pleasant as in sun, windy, warm and welcoming . We wish you were all here to share this beautiful situation with us.



This post will lean heavily toward food and fun and the next will concentrate on the ongoing renovations.


This morning at breakfast I was reminded how much we like the food here. I looked at the crazy selection we enjoy virtually every day. We had a cheeseboard  of Cantal, Brebis, Compte, Tomme and Roquefort. For meats, we had Spanish cured ham, chorizo, a Canadien type bacon, rossette (think salami) and a pate du porc. We had four types of olives: escabeche, anchovie stuffed, Lucque, and a chef's special mix. We had a bowl of whole garlic cloves somewhat preserved in a briny mix. Pat had a  croissant and I enjoyed a pain du Chocolat baked fresh this morning from our boulangerie. Juice, butter, coffee and tea completed the meal. Each of the foods are tasty by themselves but when combined with others, the explosion of flavors is fantastic.
Not today, but frequently, we will also have fresh tomatoes, cukes, onions, apples or other fresh fruits. Yes, on occasion, we still have bacon and eggs but still with several of the above to go along with it.

A word about the pate. In USA, we would almost consider it Spam. In France, there are probably dozens of varied options and they make it with all meats from. beef, pork, lamb, fig, apricot, duck and rabbit. It is a staple here and the mature lady shoppers will stand at the meat counter and sample several before they buy.



Memorable meals and Brasucades




As usual, we love the food, restaurants and Brasucades here.To recap, a brasucade is a village hosted event and folks come from all around to enjoy Moule, Frites, Quail, Cote de Porc (pork chop), Brochette (turkey or duck on skewers) sausage,and crepes all cooked on the ground over grapevine coals. The courses come off the grills at staged intervals starting with frites and moules. then quail, later brochettes pork, and sausage. It comes complete with free wine, music and dancing and a visit by the Poulain for the kids. Dessert and coffee finish the evening which starts about half 6 and ends about 1 am. I suppose it is very similar to tailgating in USA...except with no ball game.


Premier Brasucade


The first brasucade occurred July 3 and I tried out my Independence Day chapeau on the villagers. Boy, did I get some giggles and looks. It was part of my costume for our fancy dress 4th party.


un idiot avec un chapeau et perruque (wig)
Pat is not impressed
Alison with a plump moule

Our table of about 20



Mssr. Crazy avec le Poulain


Caisse Savon

In June, we were invited to the next village over, Abeilhan, for their annual Caisse Savon. We were invited in French and did not understand exactly what we were going to. I knew that caisse usually means cash register/cashbox or the checkout position in the store. Savon simply means soap. So we assumed it was a soap exposition and sale. (Fine soap is a specialty of this region.)

Santa 
We arrived to find people lined up along the street behind barricades as if for a parade of some sort. We wiggled thru the crowd and found a nice place to view the parade. All of a sudden, sirens started and fire emergency vehicles cleared the street and turned into the Cave cooperative near where we were standing. While we were straining to see what the emergency was, the street came alive with funny looking folks seemingly on go-carts. Quickly we realized what it was: a Soap Box Derby!

Pink Pigs


Inmates

Well, for about 2 hours these homemade rigs would race down from the top of the village and finish at the Cave. Wonderful creativity in both their vehicles and their costumes. 
don't ask

log on wheels
Lost a wheel and came down the hill in sparks

Don't ask
Santa among the flares

It was a very good slope down the hill so some of the carts reached high speeds. Few had any brakes and drug their feet to maintain a safe speed. When they reached the finish, many were towed or hauled back to the top for another run.
Nurses with bedpans


Babies in a crib



The event was organized by the local equivalent of Jaycees. They wore T-shirts with their club name of “Les Nez Rouges” (the red noses) and it appeared they had earned their name. 


Le Ferme Marine

(the fish farm)



Bert, Patrick and Doug conjured up a trip to the all you can eat seafood buffet in Marseillan. True to form, it was more than I expected since the French are usually small portion oriented. The restaurant sits at waters edge of a large saltwater lake populated by oyster, moule and crevette farming. Crustacean (raw bar) is their specialty but any seafood is available at the hot counter. Hot fish is usually served whole so some work is to be expected. The same with escargot (Snails), Bulot (sea snails), crevette (shrimp) and crab. Oysters are shucked and served cold or gratinee. We feasted at lunch for about 2.5 hours and left totally stuffed.



Pat's Poisson



Gambas whole (they only squeal once when you remove the head)

Helene, Patrick and Sonya

Yes, I ate it all

Huitres Gratinee (oysters gratinee)

Profiterole dessert (glace in pastry avec chantilly


Le Repas des Voisins
(Annual dinner on the square with neighbors)


June 27 marked the third neighbors dinner we have attended. It is only for those neighbors on the interior circles of the village. Sometimes it is pot luck as it was this year. Pat took a huge Cobb salad which was totally consumed. Again, we were the only English speakers there but we chatted in English and they chatted in French. Not a syllable was wasted. It is beautiful in that it is community bonding at its finest. We enjoyed meeting old friends and meeting new neighbors and took the time to get better acquainted. As you can see from the photos, our village has welcomed us very fondly.

Manola and Gisele (Gigi)

























Our habitual pose avec wine and food














Good friends and neighbors



















Trying my French





















Three roses and a thorn



Blanc d'Alignan

The Cave Cooperative organised a Cancer Benefit Repas  "Blanc d'Alignan" in June . Food, degustation (wine tasting), live show band and Paella for 10 euro. Costumed line dancers strutted for a good while while the rest of got properly lubricated for the dance floor after the meal. Many of our Tourbes friends joined in the frivolity and Mick and Yvonne met the "Hands-on Healer" from Alignan.

Le GuĂ©risseur 
Alternative medicine?


Boot Scootin


Pat and Gigi

Alison, Wendy and Pat

Robert, Dorothy and Hannie

John, Bert and Hannie

Kobus and Anna

Mick, Yvonne, Robert and Kobus
Pat and Richard "cutting a rug" 


American Independence Day Celebration

For the Fourth celebration, I decided in April to try to do a "fancy dress" theme for our party. I found some cheap costumes online and ordered several in preparation. The plan was to have the key participants in the revolutionary war to be in costume and have a small recounting of the key events. Specifically, the French support of men and money. Of course. we had no shortage of British candidates to play King George, Queen Sophia Charlotte and Generals Cornwallis, Clinton and Howe. Americans were in short supply but we managed Ben Franklin, George Washington, Betsy Ross, and Benedict Arnold in costume. the French were represented by King Louis 16th and Marie Antoinette, Lafayette, Ben Franklin's mistress and an unknown French gunrunner.

Ben Franklin with Louis 16th and Marie Antoinette
Queen Sophia Charlotte
 We had about 40 guests not all of whom were in costume. Ben Franklin (me) delivered a short welcome and recap of what the day meant to all. We toasted the British Empire from whom we broke away but then became allies. I played a rendition of "God Save the King" to which the Brits, Aussies, Irish and Scots all chimed in on.

Betsy with her French friends
Ben Franklin and Betsy Ross 

Sharing a giggle
 Then we toasted the French without whose help, we would not have succeeded in our quest for freedom. I then played "La Marseillaise" and the French sang with enthusiasm I have never seen before. Some had tears in their eyes as they sang with all their strength.

We concluded with a toast to the Americans and sang our national anthem. We only had 5 out of the forty present so our voices were not so loud.

Ann Quinn read a lovely poem from her new book, Monopoems, after the formalities and then back to eating and drinking.
Ann, the Irish Poetess and Chris, French, gunrunner

Sharing a guffaw 
And much, much later...
Ben and his French mistress
Yes, we did eat and drink (a lot)
Louis, Marie Antoinette, Lafayette and Pierre
Royalty with Evelyne, Christine and Gigi
Betsy Ross and King George


Bastille Day in Alignan


We had a fairly quiet celebration this year. Prior years have been 2-3 days with all sorts of shows, music, and meals going on. This year only a meal at Place du Cafe (the square) followed by very late fireworks. Even the processional of small children carrying lighted candles was very limited.The fireworks were first rate but for some reason (known only to the French) it was not very exciting this year.

But we managed to have a very enjoyable evening at a table of friends. 


Our table with Americans, Dutch and French


Manola and her new Beau Jean
La Maitre de Paella with Manola, Jean, Gigi, Francois, and Joe


Children with the Chinese lanterns